The preparation called STOCK is for some inscrutable reason a
stumbling-block to average cooks, and even by experienced housekeepers is
often looked upon as troublesome and expensive. Where large amounts of
fresh meat are used in its preparation, the latter adjective might be
appropriate; but stock in reality is the only mode by which every scrap of
bone or meat, whether cooked or uncooked, can be made to yield the last
particle of nourishment contained in it. Properly prepared and strained
into a stone jar, it will keep a week, and is as useful in the making of
hashes and gravies as in soup itself.

The first essential is a tightly-covered kettle, either tinned iron or
porcelain-lined, holding not less than two gallons; three being a
preferable size. Whether cooked or uncooked meat is used, it should be cut
into small bits, and all bones broken or sawn into short pieces, that the
marrow may be easily extracted.

To every pound of meat and bone allow one quart of cold water, one even
teaspoon of salt, and half a saltspoon of pepper. Let the meat stand till
the water is slightly colored with its juice; then put upon the fire, and
let it come slowly to a boil, skimming off every particle of scum as it
rises. The least neglect of this point will give a broth in which bits of
dark slime float about, unpleasant to sight and taste. A cup of cold
water, thrown in as the kettle boils, will make the scum rise more freely.
Let it boil steadily, but very slowly, allowing an hour to each pound of
meat. The water will boil away, leaving, at the end of the time specified,
not more than half or one-third the original amount. In winter this will
become a firm jelly, which can be used by simply melting it, thus
obtaining a strong, clear broth; or can be diluted with an equal quantity
of water, and vegetables added for a vegetable soup.

The meat used in stock, if boiled the full length of time given, has
parted with all its juices, and is therefore useless as food. If wanted
for hashes or croquettes, the portion needed should be taken out as soon
as tender, and a pint of the stock with it, to use as gravy. Strain, when
done, into a stone pot or crock kept for the purpose, and, when cold,
remove the cake of fat which will rise to the top. This fat, melted and
strained, serves for many purposes better than lard. If the stock is to be
kept several days, leave the fat on till ready to use it.

Fresh and cooked meat may be used together, and all remains of poultry or
game, and trimmings of chops and steaks, may be added, mutton being the
only meat which can not as well be used in combination; though even this,
by trimming off all the fat, may also be added. If it is intended to keep
the stock for some days, no vegetables should be added, as vegetable
juices ferment very easily. For clear soups they must be cooked with the
meat; and directions will be given under that head for amounts and
seasonings.

The secret of a savory soup lies in many flavors, none of which are
allowed to predominate; and, minutely as rules for such flavoring may be
given, only careful and frequent _tasting_ will insure success. Every
vegetable, spice, and sweet herb, curry-powders, catchups, sauces, dried
or fresh lemon-peel, can be used; and the simple stock, by the addition of
these various ingredients, becomes the myriad number of soups to be found
in the pages of great cooking manuals like Gouffee’s or Francatelli’s.

_Brown soups_ are made by frying the meat or game used in them till
thoroughly brown on all sides, and using dark spices or sauces in their
seasoning.

_White soups_ are made with light meats, and often with the addition of
milk or cream.

_Purees_ are merely thick soups strained carefully before serving, and
made usually of some vegetable which thickens in boiling, as beans, pease,
&c, though there are several forms of fish _purees_ in which the
foundation is thickened milk, to which the fish is added, and the whole
then rubbed through a common sieve, if a regular puree-sieve is not to be
had.

Browned flour is often used for coloring, but does not thicken a soup, as,
in browning it, the starchy portion has been destroyed; and it will not
therefore mix, but settles at the bottom. Burned sugar or caramel makes a
better coloring, and also adds flavor. With clear soups grated cheese is
often served, either Parmesan or any rich cheese being used. Onions give a
better flavor if they are fried in a little butter or dripping before
using, and many professional cooks fry all soup vegetables lightly.
Cabbage and potatoes should be parboiled in a separate water before
adding to a soup. In using wine or catchup, add only at the last moment,
as boiling dissipates the flavor. Unless a thick vegetable soup is
desired, always strain into the tureen. Rice, sago, macaroni, or any
cereal may be used as thickening; the amounts required being found under
the different headings. Careful skimming, long boiling, and as careful
removing of fat, will secure a broth especially desirable as a food for
children and the old, but almost equally so for any age; while many
fragments, otherwise entirely useless, discover themselves as savory and
nutritious parts of the day’s supply of food.